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Entry 1 - July 15th 2008

Indigo Dyeing Processes
Question emailed from customer.  "Why is there so much blue used in vegetable
dye oriental rugs?  What do they use?"-  Laura F. Lexington, KY
The RugMan's Blog
Natural indigo fermented and caked.
The beginning of a dye vat- notice the
murky yellow color.
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The RugMan's Blog
Entry 4 - July 25th, 2008

Vegetable Dyes- Madder Root Reds
In continuation of the vegetable dye discussion, a little insight into one of the older
forms of red dyes, producing muddy reds, oranges, and true reds.
    
      Since we have recently touched upon the subject of vegetable dyes, we thought
that we would continue the conversation by discussing Madder Root Red Dye.  If
you pay attention to your vegetable dyed rugs, you will find that most will contain a
considerable amount of red, and most of those will display a muddy, rusty red that
is characteristic of madder root dyeing.  So here is how that comes to be.
      There are about 60 different variations of the madder plant found in Africa, Asia,
America, and the Middle East.  The plant is a perennial climbing herb that can grow
up to six feet high with long, glossy leave, yellow star-like hooks, and small yellow
flowers.  Some variations can also produce red and black berries that are not for
human consumption.  The roots of the plant, which are used for dye can grow up to
three feet long.
      The roots are harvested at the beginning of the year and depending upon when
they are to be used can either be kept fresh or dried.  Madder roots that has been
very recently harvested does not produce good color and must be soaked in clean
water for at least 24 hours before use.
      The plant can produce differing shades of red dye by using different technique
for treating the roots, or by using the separated parts of the root.  The roots may be
either fermented or pulverized and dissolved using sulfuric acids.  Using the outer
parts of the roots create a brownish, rusty red.  Using the inner parts of the roots
create brighter, more fiery reds.  Fermenting the roots will also help to produce
brighter more fiery reds, and other additives such as clay or walnut husks may also
be used for specific colors.  Pulverising and dissolving the roots in acid create
deeper shades of true red, but must be treated with alcohol before the dye can be
applied to wool.
      As with most vegetable dyes, a mordant must be used to allow the dye to
adhere to the wool fibers.  The natural structure and oils of the wool tend to reject
dye, causing most of the color to wash away unless a mordant is used.  For
madder dyeing, a simple alum is mixed in with the solution.
      The wool, madder dye, and mordant are added to dye vats and are heated.  
Depending upon the shade desired, the dyeing time varies, and repeated vat
dyeings may be necessary.
      Once the color is achieved, the wool is washed at least three times to remove
any excess dye or materials.  The wool is then laid out to dry in the sun, which
during many times of the year can take a while depending upon the humidity.
Variations of red produced by
madder root dye.
Example of the madder root plant, a
commonly used herb, and its root.
Fermented, dried, and chopped
madder root.