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| Rugs 101 - Information Center for Oriental Rugs |
Materials - Wool
Wool is the natural fiber that makes up the wonderful textiles such as oriental rugs, fine
cashmere sweaters, and hiking socks that somehow stay dry all day long. This fiber is the
product of the spun fur of the otherwise unglamorous sheep. The question many have
asked is- how does such a rather unintelligent animal produce some of the worlds most
amazing material?
Wool is the fiber from the fleece of the sheep. It is a natural, protein, multi-cellular, stable
fiber. Prehistoric man, clothing himself with sheepskin, eventually learned ways to make
yarn and fabric from their fiber covering. Wool has been used since biblical times, and was
mentioned in the chronicles of roman history. From medieval time, throughout the
industrial revolution, sheep have performed double duty for mankind, not only as a food
source, but a foundation for insulation form the elements.
Wool is the fiber forming the protective covering, or fleece, of sheep. Wool can also be
taken from other animals such as goats or camels. Early wool was a very coarse fiber.
Selective sheep breeding eliminated most of the long, course hairs forming the protective
outer coating of the sheep, leaving the insulating fleecy undercoat of softer, fine fibers. The
breeding of animal and the production of wool fiber into fabric are more costly than the
cultivation of plant fibers, like cotton and linen. Wool provides warmth and physical comfort
that linen and cotton products cannot give. These qualities, combined with its soft
resiliency, make wool desirable for apparel, rugs, and blankets.
Wool is gathered by shearing the fleece from live sheep, but pelts of slaughtered sheep
are sometimes chemically treated to loosen the fibers, yielding an inferior type of wool
called pulled wool. Cleaning the fleece removes the “wool grease”, a fatty substance that
is then purified to make lanolin, a product used in cosmetics and ointments.The wool fiber
is composed of three layers. The outer layer of scales is called the epidermis, or the
cuticle, a porous membrane that repels water, but allows moisture vapor to penetrate. The
scale covering overlap much like roof shingle. This scale structure is unique to wool,
which gives the special qualities. The center of the wool fiber is the medulla, the
honeycomb-like core that contains air spaces (absent in fine wools). The bulk of the wool
fiber is composed of a mass of cells called the cortex. The cells contract to different
extents, giving the wool fibers their unique spiral crimp, elasticity, resilience, and size.
Wool is so absorbent that it can take in up to 30% of its own volume in moisture, feels dry
when it is damp, holds a layer of air next to your skin to keep you warm in the winter,
absorbs perspiration, sheds dust due to lack of a static charge, sheds liquids, breathes
easily, absorbs a broad range of dyes, and resists fading.
Wool is also flame resistant- it does not melt under fire and does not support combustion.
It is so versatile and adaptable that it weaves and knits into a wide variety of textures and
weights from sheer crepes, fine gabardines, cozy sweater knits, and luxurious carpeting.
cashmere sweaters, and hiking socks that somehow stay dry all day long. This fiber is the
product of the spun fur of the otherwise unglamorous sheep. The question many have
asked is- how does such a rather unintelligent animal produce some of the worlds most
amazing material?
Wool is the fiber from the fleece of the sheep. It is a natural, protein, multi-cellular, stable
fiber. Prehistoric man, clothing himself with sheepskin, eventually learned ways to make
yarn and fabric from their fiber covering. Wool has been used since biblical times, and was
mentioned in the chronicles of roman history. From medieval time, throughout the
industrial revolution, sheep have performed double duty for mankind, not only as a food
source, but a foundation for insulation form the elements.
Wool is the fiber forming the protective covering, or fleece, of sheep. Wool can also be
taken from other animals such as goats or camels. Early wool was a very coarse fiber.
Selective sheep breeding eliminated most of the long, course hairs forming the protective
outer coating of the sheep, leaving the insulating fleecy undercoat of softer, fine fibers. The
breeding of animal and the production of wool fiber into fabric are more costly than the
cultivation of plant fibers, like cotton and linen. Wool provides warmth and physical comfort
that linen and cotton products cannot give. These qualities, combined with its soft
resiliency, make wool desirable for apparel, rugs, and blankets.
Wool is gathered by shearing the fleece from live sheep, but pelts of slaughtered sheep
are sometimes chemically treated to loosen the fibers, yielding an inferior type of wool
called pulled wool. Cleaning the fleece removes the “wool grease”, a fatty substance that
is then purified to make lanolin, a product used in cosmetics and ointments.The wool fiber
is composed of three layers. The outer layer of scales is called the epidermis, or the
cuticle, a porous membrane that repels water, but allows moisture vapor to penetrate. The
scale covering overlap much like roof shingle. This scale structure is unique to wool,
which gives the special qualities. The center of the wool fiber is the medulla, the
honeycomb-like core that contains air spaces (absent in fine wools). The bulk of the wool
fiber is composed of a mass of cells called the cortex. The cells contract to different
extents, giving the wool fibers their unique spiral crimp, elasticity, resilience, and size.
Wool is so absorbent that it can take in up to 30% of its own volume in moisture, feels dry
when it is damp, holds a layer of air next to your skin to keep you warm in the winter,
absorbs perspiration, sheds dust due to lack of a static charge, sheds liquids, breathes
easily, absorbs a broad range of dyes, and resists fading.
Wool is also flame resistant- it does not melt under fire and does not support combustion.
It is so versatile and adaptable that it weaves and knits into a wide variety of textures and
weights from sheer crepes, fine gabardines, cozy sweater knits, and luxurious carpeting.
Wool is taken in a multiple step process from raw
wool to finished yarn. The finished yarn is then
dyed and used for weaving.
wool to finished yarn. The finished yarn is then
dyed and used for weaving.
The vast majority of hand-knotted rugs utilize
merino wool, renowned for its durability and soft
feel. Wools from different regions may be blended
for a higher grade yarn.
merino wool, renowned for its durability and soft
feel. Wools from different regions may be blended
for a higher grade yarn.