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Rugs 101 - Information Center for Oriental Rugs
Dyeing Processes- continued
Vegetable dyeing requires multiple natural
ingredients and processes to create complex colors.
Chemical Dyes
With advances that came in the way of chemical production throughout the 19th
century, it was inevitable that synthetic dyes would eventually find their place in
the oriental rug industry.  Because of the skill required for use, and the expense
involved in attaining natural dyestuffs, many chemists made special efforts to
create dye processes solely for the purpose of use in oriental rugs.  

Synthetic dyes may be described by two general terms- aniline, which refers to
compounds based upon the benzene ring, and chromes, which require the use
of potassium bichromate as a mordant.  Each of these has different strengths
and weaknesses dependant upon the properties being described.  These will be
discussed further later.

In 1856 Sir William Henry Perkin became the first to develop a useful dye that
was available for commercial use in rugs.  The financial success of this dye
process and the demand that was apparent from oriental rugs prompted many
other European companies to follow suit and begin development of synthetic
dyes. These dyes offered properties that most natural dyestuffs could not;
brighter, more vivid colors that were not affected by natural light.  Many colors that
were previously impossible to produce with natural dyes quickly came into the
market, becoming the main color palettes for many oriental rugs.  These new
dyes were both cheaper and easier to use than their natural counterparts, but
because of the speed with which they entered the marketplace, many faults were
later found which prompted criticism.

While these dyes initially gained praise for the spectrum of colors that they
produced and the amazing light-fastness they provided, it was not long until the
realization was made that many of these dyes would run if gotten wet, and some
chemical dyes were so harsh as to destroy the structure of the wool.  While these
rugs were initially outstanding in color, the long term effects of synthetic dyes left
many rugs with blurred colors or even with dead, fragile wool fibers.  
Unfortunately, many of these carpets were quickly exported, and the inferiority of
these rugs nearly destroyed the market for synthetically dyed rugs.  Even today,
there are many accounts which rage at the use of improper synthetic dyes.  
Luckily measures were taken in order to stifle the effects of these inferior dyes.

Throughout the early 1890’s various written and unwritten laws were created in
order to stifle the use of these dyes.  These measures ranged from the burning
of inferior carpets to the punishment of those who used these dyes.  While these
punishments may seem to be effective, the enforcement was weak and therefore
synthetically dyed carpets continued to be produced.  Even in areas were
enforcement was available, the ease of use and inexpense of the dyes caused
some weavers to bootleg these dyes for production. These actions did, however,
cause dye producers to allot more effort and money to be invested in dye
development.  

As synthetic dyes improved, the market was slow to adjust to the changes.  For a
long time, consumers demanded natural dyes, and many dealers resorted to
lying to their clients about the type of dyes in their rugs. Today, synthetic dyes are
used in the majority of all rugs produced.  These are still easier and less
expensive to use, and this has caused the master dyer to slowly move away from
natural dye and concentrate on the synthetic dyes.  For the rug industry itself, this
may be a good change- preserving the customer base that demands a more
modern product.  Sadly, this is killing the original art form of the master dyer.  
Any skilled chemistry student can perform the function of a synthetic dyer with
some practice.  The art of the natural dyes are slowly vanishing due to the mis-
education of the consumer.
Dye recipes are hand-written and passed down from
generation to generation. They may remain
unchanged for decades.