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Dyeing Processes
One of the most skilled arts that are employed throughout the creation of an oriental rug is that of the master dyer. These
skills are as important to the quality, durability, and beauty of the rug as are the materials, design, and the weave. If a rug is
dyed properly it will age wonderfully and look better as long as it is maintained properly. When a rug is dyed masterfully, it will
increase in beauty and value every day of its life as the colors gradually change and develop a patina that finely handmade
products do.
Unfortunately, dyeing processes are probably the most complex process in the entire rug creation. For centuries up until
1856, the only sources of dye were natural plant and animal substances. These types of dyes were relatively expenses, hard
to make, and required masterful skills to use. Then in 1856, a chemical breakthrough took place that created easy to use and
inexpensive synthetic dyes. Of course, as is the case with everything in oriental rugs, both types of dyes had their strengths
and weaknesses.
There are basically two different kinds of dyes. Natural dyes are those that are taken from nature and are not man-made.
These dyes are essentially created through extraction from plant and animal sources. Synthetic dyes are man made. These
dyes are created in a laboratory using chemical processes. In many cases, the structure and properties of these dyes are
exactly the same. But in other cases it is readily apparent that the properties of one dye outweigh the lower expense of
another. It is also very important to understand that there are a huge number of misconceptions about the different types of
dyes. Some people have gone as far as to say that certain types of dyes have no value whatsoever. The fact remains that
with the speed of change that goes on in the dye industry, it is nearly impossible to compare the different types of dyes on a
fair and neutral basis.
Natural Dyes
For many centuries, the only available materials to be used for dyes were natural. These dyes required intensive skills and
training to be correctly measured, formulated, and applied. For these reasons, trade in natural dyes became a major
economic boost for many rug-producing areas. Many colors were so hard to produce with local ingredients that they had to
be imported and were sold worth their weight in gold. Other natural dyes were so essential and
commonplace that their production became complete local industries
within themselves.
There are many beliefs about natural dyes that exist even today. Using natural dyes is a very labor-intensive process. It
involves careful and exact recipes, and requires the knowledge and patience of a skilled dyer. Because each batch of
vegetable dye produces a color that is nearly impossible to replicate, many of these color combinations are kept in family
recipe books that are passed down
through generations.
Primary colors (red, blue, yellow) are the most often used and produced dyes in oriental rugs. With vegetable dyes, these
primary colors are also necessary for the creation of the secondary colors ( orange, green, purple, brown, black.)
skills are as important to the quality, durability, and beauty of the rug as are the materials, design, and the weave. If a rug is
dyed properly it will age wonderfully and look better as long as it is maintained properly. When a rug is dyed masterfully, it will
increase in beauty and value every day of its life as the colors gradually change and develop a patina that finely handmade
products do.
Unfortunately, dyeing processes are probably the most complex process in the entire rug creation. For centuries up until
1856, the only sources of dye were natural plant and animal substances. These types of dyes were relatively expenses, hard
to make, and required masterful skills to use. Then in 1856, a chemical breakthrough took place that created easy to use and
inexpensive synthetic dyes. Of course, as is the case with everything in oriental rugs, both types of dyes had their strengths
and weaknesses.
There are basically two different kinds of dyes. Natural dyes are those that are taken from nature and are not man-made.
These dyes are essentially created through extraction from plant and animal sources. Synthetic dyes are man made. These
dyes are created in a laboratory using chemical processes. In many cases, the structure and properties of these dyes are
exactly the same. But in other cases it is readily apparent that the properties of one dye outweigh the lower expense of
another. It is also very important to understand that there are a huge number of misconceptions about the different types of
dyes. Some people have gone as far as to say that certain types of dyes have no value whatsoever. The fact remains that
with the speed of change that goes on in the dye industry, it is nearly impossible to compare the different types of dyes on a
fair and neutral basis.
Natural Dyes
For many centuries, the only available materials to be used for dyes were natural. These dyes required intensive skills and
training to be correctly measured, formulated, and applied. For these reasons, trade in natural dyes became a major
economic boost for many rug-producing areas. Many colors were so hard to produce with local ingredients that they had to
be imported and were sold worth their weight in gold. Other natural dyes were so essential and
commonplace that their production became complete local industries
within themselves.
There are many beliefs about natural dyes that exist even today. Using natural dyes is a very labor-intensive process. It
involves careful and exact recipes, and requires the knowledge and patience of a skilled dyer. Because each batch of
vegetable dye produces a color that is nearly impossible to replicate, many of these color combinations are kept in family
recipe books that are passed down
through generations.
Primary colors (red, blue, yellow) are the most often used and produced dyes in oriental rugs. With vegetable dyes, these
primary colors are also necessary for the creation of the secondary colors ( orange, green, purple, brown, black.)
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Rugs 101 - Information Center for Oriental Rugs __________________
Chemical Dyes
With advances that came in the way of chemical production throughout the 19th century, it was inevitable that synthetic dyes
would eventually find their place in the oriental rug industry. Because of the skill required for use, and the expense involved in
attaining natural dyestuffs, many chemists made special efforts to create dye processes solely for the purpose of use in
oriental rugs.
Synthetic dyes may be described by two general terms- aniline, which refers to compounds based upon the benzene ring,
and chromes, which require the use of potassium bichromate as a mordant. Each of these has different strengths and
weaknesses dependant upon the properties being described. These will be discussed further later.
In 1856 Sir William Henry Perkin became the first to develop a useful dye that was available for commercial use in rugs. The
financial success of this dye process and the demand that was apparent from oriental rugs prompted many other European
companies to follow suit and begin development of synthetic dyes. These dyes offered properties that most natural dyestuffs
could not; brighter, more vivid colors that were not affected by natural light. Many colors that were previously impossible to
produce with natural dyes quickly came into the market, becoming the main color palettes for many oriental rugs. These new
dyes were both cheaper and easier to use than their natural counterparts, but because of the speed with which they entered
the marketplace, many faults were later found which prompted criticism.
While these dyes initially gained praise for the spectrum of colors that they produced and the amazing light-fastness they
provided, it was not long until the realization was made that many of these dyes would run if gotten wet, and some chemical
dyes were so harsh as to destroy the structure of the wool. While these rugs were initially outstanding in color, the long term
effects of synthetic dyes left many rugs with blurred colors or even with dead, fragile wool fibers. Unfortunately, many of these
carpets were quickly exported, and the inferiority of these rugs nearly destroyed the market for synthetically dyed rugs. Even
today, there are many accounts which rage at the use of improper synthetic dyes. Luckily measures were taken in order to
stifle the effects of these inferior dyes.
Throughout the early 1890’s various written and unwritten laws were created in order to stifle the use of these dyes. These
measures ranged from the burning of inferior carpets to the punishment of those who used these dyes. While these
punishments may seem to be effective, the enforcement was weak and therefore synthetically dyed carpets continued to be
produced. Even in areas were enforcement was available, the ease of use and inexpense of the dyes caused some weavers
to bootleg these dyes for production. These actions did, however, cause dye producers to allot more effort and money to be
invested in dye development.
As synthetic dyes improved, the market was slow to adjust to the changes. For a long time, consumers demanded natural
dyes, and many dealers resorted to lying to their clients about the type of dyes in their rugs. Today, synthetic dyes are used in
the majority of all rugs produced. These are still easier and less expensive to use, and this has caused the master dyer to
slowly move away from natural dye and concentrate on the synthetic dyes. For the rug industry itself, this may be a good
change- preserving the customer base that demands a more modern product. Sadly, this is killing the original art form of the
master dyer. Any skilled chemistry student can perform the function of a synthetic dyer with some practice. The art of the
natural dyes are slowly vanishing due to the mis-education of the consumer.
With advances that came in the way of chemical production throughout the 19th century, it was inevitable that synthetic dyes
would eventually find their place in the oriental rug industry. Because of the skill required for use, and the expense involved in
attaining natural dyestuffs, many chemists made special efforts to create dye processes solely for the purpose of use in
oriental rugs.
Synthetic dyes may be described by two general terms- aniline, which refers to compounds based upon the benzene ring,
and chromes, which require the use of potassium bichromate as a mordant. Each of these has different strengths and
weaknesses dependant upon the properties being described. These will be discussed further later.
In 1856 Sir William Henry Perkin became the first to develop a useful dye that was available for commercial use in rugs. The
financial success of this dye process and the demand that was apparent from oriental rugs prompted many other European
companies to follow suit and begin development of synthetic dyes. These dyes offered properties that most natural dyestuffs
could not; brighter, more vivid colors that were not affected by natural light. Many colors that were previously impossible to
produce with natural dyes quickly came into the market, becoming the main color palettes for many oriental rugs. These new
dyes were both cheaper and easier to use than their natural counterparts, but because of the speed with which they entered
the marketplace, many faults were later found which prompted criticism.
While these dyes initially gained praise for the spectrum of colors that they produced and the amazing light-fastness they
provided, it was not long until the realization was made that many of these dyes would run if gotten wet, and some chemical
dyes were so harsh as to destroy the structure of the wool. While these rugs were initially outstanding in color, the long term
effects of synthetic dyes left many rugs with blurred colors or even with dead, fragile wool fibers. Unfortunately, many of these
carpets were quickly exported, and the inferiority of these rugs nearly destroyed the market for synthetically dyed rugs. Even
today, there are many accounts which rage at the use of improper synthetic dyes. Luckily measures were taken in order to
stifle the effects of these inferior dyes.
Throughout the early 1890’s various written and unwritten laws were created in order to stifle the use of these dyes. These
measures ranged from the burning of inferior carpets to the punishment of those who used these dyes. While these
punishments may seem to be effective, the enforcement was weak and therefore synthetically dyed carpets continued to be
produced. Even in areas were enforcement was available, the ease of use and inexpense of the dyes caused some weavers
to bootleg these dyes for production. These actions did, however, cause dye producers to allot more effort and money to be
invested in dye development.
As synthetic dyes improved, the market was slow to adjust to the changes. For a long time, consumers demanded natural
dyes, and many dealers resorted to lying to their clients about the type of dyes in their rugs. Today, synthetic dyes are used in
the majority of all rugs produced. These are still easier and less expensive to use, and this has caused the master dyer to
slowly move away from natural dye and concentrate on the synthetic dyes. For the rug industry itself, this may be a good
change- preserving the customer base that demands a more modern product. Sadly, this is killing the original art form of the
master dyer. Any skilled chemistry student can perform the function of a synthetic dyer with some practice. The art of the
natural dyes are slowly vanishing due to the mis-education of the consumer.