859-254-4412
Care and Cleaning
An oriental rug is much like any fine work of art. They appreciate with the
passage of time and have been the standard of luxury that has proven countless
times their increased value over the years. It is essential for you to protect your
investment through proper care and cleaning to increase the life and value of
your rug.
Lexington Oriental Rug Co. is committed to excellence in value, selection and
service. We can provide long term for your oriental rug through our Professional
Hand Cleaning and Restoration Service. Call us today and keep your rug
looking beautiful for generations.
Have your rug cleaned only when it really needs it. For rugs in some areas this
will mean a yearly cleaning. Rugs in other areas can go several years and more
without needing professional cleaning.
DOES MY RUG NEED CLEANING?
Is your rug visibly dirty? If yes, then it needs to be cleaned. Grab a corner of the
rug and either flip it or kick the back of the rug. If you notice a puff of dirt or dust, it
is time to get the rug cleaned.
CAN I CLEAN MY RUG MYSELF?
We do not recommend under any circumstances trying to completely clean your
rug at home. Spot cleaning in the home may be necessary, but total cleaning of
a rug without the help of a professional will likely lead to damage in your rug. Do
not dry clean or steam clean your rug!
WHAT ABOUT SPOT CLEANERS?
Do not use any spot cleaners other than water or club soda with contacting your
rug cleaning professional first. Most spot cleaners available at your local
grocery are made for wall to wall synthetic carpeting. These usually contain
harsh chemicals and bleaching agents that are not for use with wool or natural
fibers.
SWEEPING AND BLOTTING
It is always best to attack spills immediately. The best way to prevent a spill
from turning into a stain is by blotting up as much moisture as possible with
clean towels. Begin at the outer edge of the stain and blot towards the center.
Do not rub the spill. This will allow the spill to sit on top of the pile, and will not
allow the spill to leave a ring where the stain would be. The best way to blot any
kind of solid spill is to take a spoon and scoop it up, making sure not to rub the
stain into the carpet.
VACUUMING
Oriental rugs, like most carpeting should be vacuumed on a regular basis.
Unless your rug is an antique, vacuuming often will not harm the life or value of
your rug. No special vacuum cleaners or equipment are needed despite what a
vacuum salesman will tell you. Do not vacuum the fringe of your rug, it may
become caught in the beater bar and will damage the fringe. Try not to vacuum
against the pile of your rug, as excessive vacuuming against the nap can cause
undue wear.
REMOVING STAINS
Spills of almost any nature may be removed without permanent stain if taken
care of right away. The sooner you clean the spill, the less likely it will become a
stain. Most spills will sit on top of the pile momentarily, allowing you to clean up
before the spill can work into the pile of the carpet. Blot or scrape away any
excess spill or stain immediately. If necessary, dilute the spill with a moderate
amount of water, and then blot the wet area until all of the stain is removed.
Repeat as necessary. Brush or scrape away any excess immediately to
prevent penetration or possible chemical reactions.
passage of time and have been the standard of luxury that has proven countless
times their increased value over the years. It is essential for you to protect your
investment through proper care and cleaning to increase the life and value of
your rug.
Lexington Oriental Rug Co. is committed to excellence in value, selection and
service. We can provide long term for your oriental rug through our Professional
Hand Cleaning and Restoration Service. Call us today and keep your rug
looking beautiful for generations.
Have your rug cleaned only when it really needs it. For rugs in some areas this
will mean a yearly cleaning. Rugs in other areas can go several years and more
without needing professional cleaning.
DOES MY RUG NEED CLEANING?
Is your rug visibly dirty? If yes, then it needs to be cleaned. Grab a corner of the
rug and either flip it or kick the back of the rug. If you notice a puff of dirt or dust, it
is time to get the rug cleaned.
CAN I CLEAN MY RUG MYSELF?
We do not recommend under any circumstances trying to completely clean your
rug at home. Spot cleaning in the home may be necessary, but total cleaning of
a rug without the help of a professional will likely lead to damage in your rug. Do
not dry clean or steam clean your rug!
WHAT ABOUT SPOT CLEANERS?
Do not use any spot cleaners other than water or club soda with contacting your
rug cleaning professional first. Most spot cleaners available at your local
grocery are made for wall to wall synthetic carpeting. These usually contain
harsh chemicals and bleaching agents that are not for use with wool or natural
fibers.
SWEEPING AND BLOTTING
It is always best to attack spills immediately. The best way to prevent a spill
from turning into a stain is by blotting up as much moisture as possible with
clean towels. Begin at the outer edge of the stain and blot towards the center.
Do not rub the spill. This will allow the spill to sit on top of the pile, and will not
allow the spill to leave a ring where the stain would be. The best way to blot any
kind of solid spill is to take a spoon and scoop it up, making sure not to rub the
stain into the carpet.
VACUUMING
Oriental rugs, like most carpeting should be vacuumed on a regular basis.
Unless your rug is an antique, vacuuming often will not harm the life or value of
your rug. No special vacuum cleaners or equipment are needed despite what a
vacuum salesman will tell you. Do not vacuum the fringe of your rug, it may
become caught in the beater bar and will damage the fringe. Try not to vacuum
against the pile of your rug, as excessive vacuuming against the nap can cause
undue wear.
REMOVING STAINS
Spills of almost any nature may be removed without permanent stain if taken
care of right away. The sooner you clean the spill, the less likely it will become a
stain. Most spills will sit on top of the pile momentarily, allowing you to clean up
before the spill can work into the pile of the carpet. Blot or scrape away any
excess spill or stain immediately. If necessary, dilute the spill with a moderate
amount of water, and then blot the wet area until all of the stain is removed.
Repeat as necessary. Brush or scrape away any excess immediately to
prevent penetration or possible chemical reactions.
859-254-4412
Rugs 101 - Information Center for Oriental Rugs __________________
CRUSHED PILE
To up-right any pile that has been indented or crushed by the legs of heavy
furniture, first moisten the indented area, then brush it against the nap. This will
bring the nap away from the foundation of the rug. Once you have pulled all of the
nap upright, use a soft brush to brush the nap uniform with the nap direction of
the pile. Use a towel to remove any excess moisture, and make sure that the
area is completely dry before use.
ROTATION
To ensure even wear, your rug should be rotated at least once a year. Depending
on the amount of traffic, your rug may need to be rotated more often.
HANGING AND STORING
Before hanging a rug on the wall, you need to be certain that the warp threads can
stand the strain. Never use nails or staples to hang your rugs for long periods of
time. Use a strong holder such as specially designed rug clips, or a rod and
finial set to distribute the weight of your rug evenly. If your rug is going to be
stored for a long period of time, it is best to wrap it in newspaper or shipping
paper with moth balls. Never use airtight plastic bags. Rugs should never be
stored in a humid, damp, warm, or poorly ventilated room.
RUG FIRST AID
Food spills/Pet urine
Urine presents one of the most severe problems a rug can have. It can cause
color run in the rug, and the odor can be very hard to remove or disguise. Urine
can also damage the warp and weft of a rug by making the foundation hard and
brittle. Repeated wettings can cause the foundation of the rug to loose
mechanical strength to the point where the rug cracks and breaks when rolled or
folded.
In case of a food spill or urine on a rug, the problem is much more easily handled
if the spot is treated promptly, before the spill is allowed to dry. Blot up as much
liquid as possible with paper towels or a clean, white cloth. Try to rinse out as
much of the spill as possible.
To up-right any pile that has been indented or crushed by the legs of heavy
furniture, first moisten the indented area, then brush it against the nap. This will
bring the nap away from the foundation of the rug. Once you have pulled all of the
nap upright, use a soft brush to brush the nap uniform with the nap direction of
the pile. Use a towel to remove any excess moisture, and make sure that the
area is completely dry before use.
ROTATION
To ensure even wear, your rug should be rotated at least once a year. Depending
on the amount of traffic, your rug may need to be rotated more often.
HANGING AND STORING
Before hanging a rug on the wall, you need to be certain that the warp threads can
stand the strain. Never use nails or staples to hang your rugs for long periods of
time. Use a strong holder such as specially designed rug clips, or a rod and
finial set to distribute the weight of your rug evenly. If your rug is going to be
stored for a long period of time, it is best to wrap it in newspaper or shipping
paper with moth balls. Never use airtight plastic bags. Rugs should never be
stored in a humid, damp, warm, or poorly ventilated room.
RUG FIRST AID
Food spills/Pet urine
Urine presents one of the most severe problems a rug can have. It can cause
color run in the rug, and the odor can be very hard to remove or disguise. Urine
can also damage the warp and weft of a rug by making the foundation hard and
brittle. Repeated wettings can cause the foundation of the rug to loose
mechanical strength to the point where the rug cracks and breaks when rolled or
folded.
In case of a food spill or urine on a rug, the problem is much more easily handled
if the spot is treated promptly, before the spill is allowed to dry. Blot up as much
liquid as possible with paper towels or a clean, white cloth. Try to rinse out as
much of the spill as possible.
Water Damage
Most varieties of Oriental rugs have wool pile, but many have cotton warp and
weft (the warp is the foundation upon which knots are tied to create the pile; the
weft runs over and under warp strings between rows of knots to strengthen the
rug from side to side). This cotton foundation can be weakened, and sometimes
actually rotted, if the rug is wetted repeatedly and not properly dried.
A common cause of such damage occurs when potted plants are placed directly
on a rug. The plant is watered regularly, the pot leaks, and the rug under the pot
stays permanently damp. Within two or three weeks the foundation of the rug
can become so weak that chunks can be torn from the affected area by hand. If
you use planters near a rug, try to place them on a slim legged stool, or a
caster-based support that lets you see under the pot and allows for ventilation.
After watering the plant check to be sure the rug under it is completely dry.
Another form of water damage can affect rugs used in a basement or other area
below grade level. If the basement floods the potential for damage is obvious.
The rug must be removed quickly, properly cleaned, and allowed to dry
completely. A more insidious form of damage can becaused by using a rug over
a damp floor (as is often the case if the floor is cement). Even though the floor is
not noticeably wet to the touch, there can be enough moisture to allow
microorganisms to flourish in the material of the warp and weft and to degrade
the strength of the rug's foundation.
A rug damaged in this way will often feel peculiarly stiff when manipulated. The
rug will sometimes be so stiff it will be difficult to roll, and if you listen carefully to
the back of the carpet when it is creased or folded, you can often hear the cracks
and popping noises made by breaking warp and weft fibers.
Moth Damage
Flying clothes moths do not eat your rugs, but the females do lay hundreds of
eggs each, and the eggs hatch into larvae that consume wool, fur, feather, and
silk fibers. Moths and their larvae thrive in dark, undisturbed areas where a rug
gets little traffic and is not often vacuumed. A bad infestation sometimes leaves
a cobweb-like veil in the area of the damage, along with fine, sand-like debris.
An infestation often involves more than one rug, and can spread to (or from)
woolens or furs hanging in a closet or sweaters stored in a drawer. A rug
damaged by moths is not difficult to repair, but reweaving a large area of
the rug can be expensive.
To prevent moth damage: Vacuum the entire face of the rug weekly if possible.
At least several times a year, vacuum the back side of the rug and the pad and
floor underneath. If the rug is too large to handle, flip the edges over, and
vacuum at least one to two feet in along the borders on the back side of the rug.
The corresponding areas on the pad and floor should also be vacuumed.
Be aware that moth balls, flakes, or crystals (naphthalene or
paradichlorobenzene) are ineffective in moth control for rugs. These materials
act only as a minor repellent to moths. They do not kill moth larvae, and the
naphthalene odor can be unpleasant and difficult to remove from the rug. Cedar
scent is useless as a prevention for moth damage.
Any place the vacuum cannot reach, such as areas of the rug under furniture, or
a rug hung on the wall, can be sprayed with a household, non-staining
insecticide made for the purpose. Most of these products contain pyrethrins (a
class of insecticide originally extracted from the flower heads of
chrysanthemums) among the active ingredients. Although poisonous to many
varieties of insects, pyrethrins break down quickly after application and are
considered safe for use in the home. BE CAREFUL IN CHOOSING AND
APPLYING ANY INSECTICIDE. Choose a product designed for the intended use
and follow directions for application, storage, and disposal carefully. If a rug will
be stored for a long period see the recommendations on storage.
Dog Chews
Puppies tend to chew rugs because of tooth growth. The best way to prevent
chew damage is to control the puppy by keeping it away from the rug.
Sometimes sprinkling an ounce of moth flakes under the rug along the edges
will help the dog keep his distance from the rug.
To Lay a Rug Flat
If a rug has been folded for shipping, there may be wrinkles or creases when
you lay it down. To flatten them out, first determine which way the nap lays (rub
your hand across the pile in the direction of the fringe: the pile will feel smooth
one way and will roughen up when rubbed in the opposite direction). Stand at
the end of the rug with the nap running toward you. Roll the rug up from this end
as tight as you can, then slowly unroll and smooth it down along the way.
Persistent wrinkles in the same spot can be pressed from the face of the rug
using a steam iron on "wool" setting (be sure to iron the pile in its original
direction).
Rug Pads
Pads under Oriental rugs can prevent sliding, prolong the life of the rug by
cushioning the impact between shoe sole and hard floor surfaces, and provide
comfort under foot. To determine if you need a pad, the rule of thumb is: a
heavy, thick rug does not necessarily need one, whereas a thin, soft rug does,
as does an older rug or a rug that has been rewoven or patched or which has a
weakened foundation. While a pad can extend the life of any rug, whether or not
to use a pad under a new rug is often a personal decision based upon your
preference for the feel of the carpet underfoot. A pad should be about an
inch smaller than the rug all the way around (not counting the fringe) so
that the pad will not show beneath the rug.
Most varieties of Oriental rugs have wool pile, but many have cotton warp and
weft (the warp is the foundation upon which knots are tied to create the pile; the
weft runs over and under warp strings between rows of knots to strengthen the
rug from side to side). This cotton foundation can be weakened, and sometimes
actually rotted, if the rug is wetted repeatedly and not properly dried.
A common cause of such damage occurs when potted plants are placed directly
on a rug. The plant is watered regularly, the pot leaks, and the rug under the pot
stays permanently damp. Within two or three weeks the foundation of the rug
can become so weak that chunks can be torn from the affected area by hand. If
you use planters near a rug, try to place them on a slim legged stool, or a
caster-based support that lets you see under the pot and allows for ventilation.
After watering the plant check to be sure the rug under it is completely dry.
Another form of water damage can affect rugs used in a basement or other area
below grade level. If the basement floods the potential for damage is obvious.
The rug must be removed quickly, properly cleaned, and allowed to dry
completely. A more insidious form of damage can becaused by using a rug over
a damp floor (as is often the case if the floor is cement). Even though the floor is
not noticeably wet to the touch, there can be enough moisture to allow
microorganisms to flourish in the material of the warp and weft and to degrade
the strength of the rug's foundation.
A rug damaged in this way will often feel peculiarly stiff when manipulated. The
rug will sometimes be so stiff it will be difficult to roll, and if you listen carefully to
the back of the carpet when it is creased or folded, you can often hear the cracks
and popping noises made by breaking warp and weft fibers.
Moth Damage
Flying clothes moths do not eat your rugs, but the females do lay hundreds of
eggs each, and the eggs hatch into larvae that consume wool, fur, feather, and
silk fibers. Moths and their larvae thrive in dark, undisturbed areas where a rug
gets little traffic and is not often vacuumed. A bad infestation sometimes leaves
a cobweb-like veil in the area of the damage, along with fine, sand-like debris.
An infestation often involves more than one rug, and can spread to (or from)
woolens or furs hanging in a closet or sweaters stored in a drawer. A rug
damaged by moths is not difficult to repair, but reweaving a large area of
the rug can be expensive.
To prevent moth damage: Vacuum the entire face of the rug weekly if possible.
At least several times a year, vacuum the back side of the rug and the pad and
floor underneath. If the rug is too large to handle, flip the edges over, and
vacuum at least one to two feet in along the borders on the back side of the rug.
The corresponding areas on the pad and floor should also be vacuumed.
Be aware that moth balls, flakes, or crystals (naphthalene or
paradichlorobenzene) are ineffective in moth control for rugs. These materials
act only as a minor repellent to moths. They do not kill moth larvae, and the
naphthalene odor can be unpleasant and difficult to remove from the rug. Cedar
scent is useless as a prevention for moth damage.
Any place the vacuum cannot reach, such as areas of the rug under furniture, or
a rug hung on the wall, can be sprayed with a household, non-staining
insecticide made for the purpose. Most of these products contain pyrethrins (a
class of insecticide originally extracted from the flower heads of
chrysanthemums) among the active ingredients. Although poisonous to many
varieties of insects, pyrethrins break down quickly after application and are
considered safe for use in the home. BE CAREFUL IN CHOOSING AND
APPLYING ANY INSECTICIDE. Choose a product designed for the intended use
and follow directions for application, storage, and disposal carefully. If a rug will
be stored for a long period see the recommendations on storage.
Dog Chews
Puppies tend to chew rugs because of tooth growth. The best way to prevent
chew damage is to control the puppy by keeping it away from the rug.
Sometimes sprinkling an ounce of moth flakes under the rug along the edges
will help the dog keep his distance from the rug.
To Lay a Rug Flat
If a rug has been folded for shipping, there may be wrinkles or creases when
you lay it down. To flatten them out, first determine which way the nap lays (rub
your hand across the pile in the direction of the fringe: the pile will feel smooth
one way and will roughen up when rubbed in the opposite direction). Stand at
the end of the rug with the nap running toward you. Roll the rug up from this end
as tight as you can, then slowly unroll and smooth it down along the way.
Persistent wrinkles in the same spot can be pressed from the face of the rug
using a steam iron on "wool" setting (be sure to iron the pile in its original
direction).
Rug Pads
Pads under Oriental rugs can prevent sliding, prolong the life of the rug by
cushioning the impact between shoe sole and hard floor surfaces, and provide
comfort under foot. To determine if you need a pad, the rule of thumb is: a
heavy, thick rug does not necessarily need one, whereas a thin, soft rug does,
as does an older rug or a rug that has been rewoven or patched or which has a
weakened foundation. While a pad can extend the life of any rug, whether or not
to use a pad under a new rug is often a personal decision based upon your
preference for the feel of the carpet underfoot. A pad should be about an
inch smaller than the rug all the way around (not counting the fringe) so
that the pad will not show beneath the rug.